Figure 7. Pearl Pendant. Portraits of Agnolo
and Maddalena Doni (detail) (1505-1506).


Figure 8. Pearl. La Fornarina (detail) (1520) by Raphael


Figure 9. Eleonora di Toledo and Child
of Cosimo I di’ Medici by Bronzino (1503-1572).

Many sumptuary laws of this sort had to be passed during this period in Italy, one stemming from an even greater obsession with pearls. The Venetian senate passed a regulation of pearls on October 15th, 1562, which stated that “those pearls, duly registered and sealed, may be worn round the neck on a tight string only by the wives of those in whose name they are registered, for a period of ten years and no more, which shall be reckoned from the day of their marriage” (De Stoc, 2002.) Let us explore the reasons for such strict regulation; does it not seem unnecessary?

When one looks back at the painting of Maddalena Doni by Raphael, the enormous (is it not horrifying to think how heavy it would be to wear?) pearl necklace she is wearing (see Fig. 7,) leaps out at the viewer before the multitude of the rings does. La Fornarina exhibits only one small pearl that hangs from her turban (see Fig 8,) and experts have recently deciphered its message to be proof that she is not the Maria Raphael intended to marry, but Margherita, since that the Latin word for pearl

The symbolism is repeated, though less subtly, in Bronzino’s (1503-1572) portrait of the wife (Eleonora di Toledo) and child of Cosimo I di’ Medici (Fig. 9.) Eleonora shows off her position in the world by wearing pearls wherever possible (see Fig. 10): as two necklaces, as a net in her hair, as earrings, as part of her dress, and, even, as a cluster of strings of pearls dangling off her finger (Fig. 11.)

In 1440, a book was released, describing how to make fake pearls, driving Italian leaders crazy. Venice became so upset with the false pearl trade, which threatened their real-pearl trade, that they made it illegal to make them, punishable by the loss of the pearl-maker's right hand and a ten-year-exile (Evans, 1990, 78.) Diamonds and pearls were thought to have healing powers. Lorenzo de Medici drank a powdered concoction of these gems before he died in 1492 (Herald, 1981, 174). Of course, these were enormously expensive medicines (Dellaluna, 2004.)

Figure 10. Pearl Necklaces.
Eleonora di Toledo (detail)

Figure 11. Cluster of Pearls.
Eleonora di Toledo and Child
of Cosimo I di’ Medici (detail)