What is an Eye Clean Diamond? 

There are several threads discussing the definition of “eye clean.”  On the surface, it seems like a fairly straightforward concept, but what constitutes eye clean varies with both consumers and vendors.  Rather than try to define the subjective, Pricescope has asked contributing vendors, appraisers, and experts to give us their company definitions of eye clean in an effort to improve communication from vendor to consumer.

They were asked to include these three factors:

1)  Distance and orientation

2)  Type of lighting

3)  Vision type

Each vendor/appraiser/expert has a different definition, but the general consensus is:

No inclusions visible to the unaided eye when viewed from the face up position in daylight equivalent or fluorescent lighting from approximately 6-12 inches from the eye using 20/20 vision.

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The main goal is standardize the lightings and technology for cut comparison on the Internet to give a high level of repeatability.

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In this video Jonathan from Good Old Gold explains the anatomy of a Diamond.

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Historically ‘blue white’ fluorescent top coloured (D to F on the GIA colour grading scale) diamonds were once priced around 10% more than non fluorescent diamonds. Today D to F coloured blue fluorescent diamonds are usually discounted on wholesale markets. There are two main technical reasons why fluorescent diamonds would be discounted. The diamond’s body colour may have been ‘over-graded’ or its transparency may have been impaired.

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To the naked eye a D Flawless diamond can appear identical to an F VS diamond if each has been cut the same way.  Alternately, less than one degree of variation in two diamonds’ facet measurements can make a noticeable difference in appearance - yet both could be issued the same cut grade from a given lab.

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This is the beginning of a discussion on steps cuts, how they work, what they are and what to look for when buying one. 

It’s a long road but one I think is well worth investigating.

I will be starting at the bottom of the diamond and working up to the table. 

 Two of the most common step cut diamonds are the Asscher* and the Emerald cut

These cuts are closely related and the Asscher* is also known as the Square Emerald cut.

A third is the baguette (which may outsell the others in total numbers).

I will not be discussing baguettes in detail but the p3 angle problems apply to them as well.

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Dedicated to the memory of Bill “Rockdoc” Lieberum, 1948-2007.

The average consumer is often shocked to learn that only a small percentage of “independent appraisers” are unbiased and/or current on continuing education, grading systems, equipment and standards.  Since there are no requirements to be a jewelry appraiser, a vast number of so-called appraisers lack the knowledge, tools or independence to satisfy a well-educated consumer.

A commitment to “smart shopping” should not end after researching your seller.  If an appraisal is sought, you should appraise the appraiser with the same tenacity.

As a retailer we do not endorse any specific appraiser.  Nevertheless, we took time last year to interview several accredited and respected professionals whom we consider “role models;” well-known in several sectors of the trade.  We hope our questions and their diverse answers about appraisals will be helpful as a guideline for those who do their “smart shopping” globally.

- Many thanks to John Pollard for his role in producing this article

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Diamonds are a difficult item to buy in the best of circumstances.  For most shoppers it’s one of the most expensive purchases of their lives and it’s aggravatingly necessary to rely on the advice of salespeople who may not have your best interest at heart when they tell you that something is a fabulous deal.  The Internet merchants come with their own risks of providing a credit card, waiting for delivery and the ever present possibility that you will need to make a return and collect a refund.  Here are some tips on buying diamonds safely, both online and on the street.

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